Toronto is a city that consistently surprises people who arrive with low expectations. It’s simultaneously the fastest-growing major city in North America, one of the most linguistically diverse cities on earth (over 180 languages spoken), a genuine world-class food destination, and a city with more green space per resident than most comparable metros. International travellers who pass through on the way to Montreal or Vancouver and give it a day and a half typically leave wishing they’d given it three. The CN Tower view is real, Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada at its foot (opened 2013) draws families away from the queue, the museum is exceptional, the neighbourhoods reveal themselves slowly, and the food — especially if you venture beyond the waterfront tourist strip — is extraordinary. Here’s how to approach it properly.
Getting Around Toronto
Toronto‘s transit system (TTC — Toronto Transit Commission) covers the city comprehensively with subway, streetcar, and bus routes. Load a Presto card (available at all subway stations and many retailers) for tap payment across all modes — the standard adult fare is CAD $3.30 with Presto, with a monthly pass at $156. The subway is fast for major north-south (Yonge Street line) and east-west travel; the dense streetcar network covers downtown more finely, especially along King Street (one of Canada’s busiest transit corridors). The city is increasingly cyclable in its central core, with separated bike lanes on many major streets — the Bike Share Toronto network (docked e-bikes and regular bikes available across the city) is ideal for short trips. Downtown Toronto’s neighbourhoods are close enough to each other to walk between with pleasure — Kensington Market to Distillery District, for example, takes about 25 minutes on foot through some of the city’s most interesting streets.
The Neighbourhoods
Kensington Market
Kensington Market is Toronto’s most irreverent and most authentically multicultural neighbourhood — a dense grid of Victorian rowhouses converted into vintage clothing shops, independent coffee roasters, Caribbean and Ethiopian restaurants, Middle Eastern grocery stores, cheese shops, and the kind of general creative chaos that usually requires a city to be much larger to generate. On Sundays in summer, the area goes car-free for “Pedestrian Sundays” — a street party with food stalls, live music, cyclists, and roller bladers. Adjacent Chinatown (along Dundas Street West) is one of the largest in North America, with first-rate dim sum and bubble tea culture running well into the evening.
Distillery District
The Distillery District is a beautifully preserved Victorian industrial complex — the former Gooderham and Worts whisky distillery, whose landmark stone buildings rose in the 1860s as it grew into the largest distillery in the world — that has been converted into a pedestrianized neighbourhood of galleries, boutiques, restaurants, microbreweries, and event spaces. The 40 heritage buildings with their cobblestone lanes and industrial brick architecture are strikingly atmospheric — never more so than during the Toronto Christmas Market (mid-November through December), which is one of the best in Canada.
West Queen West and Ossington
West Queen West (from Bathurst to Dufferin) is Toronto’s most concentrated creative district — independent art galleries, boutique clothing designers, characterful cocktail bars, and the city’s densest concentration of interesting new restaurants. The stretch of Ossington Avenue north of Dundas holds some of the finest independent restaurants in Toronto in a pleasingly unglamorous setting. The adjoining Trinity Bellwoods Park is the social hub of west-end Toronto on sunny weekends — bring a blanket, a wine bottle (technically illegal in city parks, but widely tolerated), and observe the city’s creative class at leisure.
Top Attractions
CN Tower and Harbourfront
The CN Tower (553m) was the world’s tallest free-standing structure from 1976 to 2007 and remains Toronto’s most recognizable landmark. The LookOut and SkyPod observation levels provide extraordinary views of the city and, on clear days, across Lake Ontario to the United States. The glass floor is deliberately designed to be unnerving; the EdgeWalk (a guided hands-free walk around the outside of the tower’s main pod at 356 metres) is one of the most extreme urban experiences in the world. The Harbourfront Centre, a few minutes’ walk south, is a publicly funded cultural complex on the waterfront with rich year-round programming in art, dance, theatre, and music — much of it free.
Royal Ontario Museum
The ROM (Royal Ontario Museum) is one of the largest museums in North America — a collection of more than 18 million objects covering natural history and world cultures under one roof. The dinosaur galleries (including several T. rex specimens) are among the finest in the world. The Samuel European Galleries (medieval armour, decorative arts, Old Masters paintings), the Chinese collections, the Egyptian and Nubian galleries, and the Natural History galleries housing a massive blue whale skeleton are all worth lingering over. The Michael Lee-Chin Crystal extension — a dramatic series of prismatic crystalline forms that explode through the Victorian and Edwardian main building — is by Daniel Libeskind and worth seeing for the architecture alone.
Toronto Islands
A 10-minute ferry ride from the foot of Bay Street, the Toronto Islands are a cluster of small car-free islands in Lake Ontario with beaches, cycling paths, a small amusement park, and spectacular views of the Toronto skyline. Ward’s Island and Algonquin Island have a small residential community (a few hundred people living in island houses — among the most unusual communities in any major Canadian city). Centre Island has Centreville Amusement Park for families. The Islands are the best urban escape in Toronto — most rewarding on summer evenings when the city skyline is lit up behind you as you face back from the island’s western shore.
Food: The Best Diverse City for Eating in Canada
Toronto’s food scene is perhaps the truest expression of what genuine multiculturalism produces when applied to cooking. The Chinese food (above all in Scarborough and Richmond Hill) rivals anything outside China. The Ethiopian injera restaurants on Danforth Avenue and in the St. Clair West area rank among the best in North America. Little Portugal on Dundas West has the best pastéis de nata and piri piri chicken outside Lisbon. Greektown on Danforth has reliable souvlaki and lamb chops. The St. Lawrence Market (open Tuesday–Sunday, closed Mondays) is the city’s standout covered market — fresh produce, accomplished cheesemakers, a superb peameal bacon sandwich stall (a Toronto institution), and good coffee. The Junction, Roncesvalles, and Bloor West Village hold the city’s strongest contemporary independent restaurants — try Edulis (Spanish/European seafood), Canoe (Canadian fine dining with Lake Ontario views from the 54th floor of the TD Bank), and Alo (the most refined contemporary French in the city). For exceptional ramen: Raijin on McCaul, Sansotei in the city centre. For Korean BBQ: the cluster on Bloor Street West near Christie.
Day Trips: Niagara Falls and Beyond
Niagara Falls (1.5 hours by car or GO/VIA train from Toronto) is one of those natural spectacles that looks better in person than in any photograph — the sheer volume of water (over 168,000 cubic metres per minute over the Horseshoe Falls) creates a physical experience of sound, spray, and vertigo that photographs cannot convey. The Journey Behind the Falls tunnel tour and the Niagara City Cruises boat tour (formerly Hornblower, and Maid of the Mist before that) are both ideal for getting as close as possible. Avoid the casino and tourist trap strip; stay for the illuminations in the evening. Niagara-on-the-Lake (30 minutes from Niagara Falls), a beautifully preserved Georgian lakeside town with renowned wineries, restaurants, and the Shaw Festival theatre, is a fine addition. The Thousand Islands (2.5 hours east on the St. Lawrence) and Algonquin Provincial Park (3 hours north, for canoeing and wildlife) are the other main day trip or weekend options from Toronto.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best neighbourhoods to explore in Toronto?
Kensington Market is Toronto’s most authentically multicultural neighbourhood — a dense grid of Victorian rowhouses converted into vintage clothing shops, independent coffee roasters, Caribbean and Ethiopian restaurants, and Middle Eastern grocery stores. On Sundays in summer, the area goes car-free for “Pedestrian Sundays” — a street party with food stalls, live music, and a general sense of cheerful disorder. Adjacent Chinatown along Dundas Street West is one of the largest in North America, with first-rate dim sum and bubble tea. The Distillery District is a beautifully preserved Victorian industrial complex — the former Gooderham and Worts whisky distillery (its landmark stone buildings rose in the 1860s as it grew into the world’s largest) converted into cobblestone pedestrian lanes of galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and microbreweries, at its most atmospheric during the Toronto Christmas Market (mid-November through December). West Queen West is the creative district — independent art galleries, characterful cocktail bars, and the finest concentration of interesting new restaurants in the city.
What are the top attractions in Toronto?
The CN Tower (553 metres) was the world’s tallest free-standing structure from 1976 to 2007 — the LookOut and SkyPod observation levels provide views across the city and, on clear days, across Lake Ontario to the United States. The EdgeWalk (a guided hands-free walk around the outside of the tower’s pod at 356 metres) is one of the most extreme urban experiences in the world. The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) is one of the largest museums in North America — 18 million objects covering natural history and world cultures, with exceptional dinosaur galleries (including multiple T. rex specimens) and the dramatic Daniel Libeskind Crystal architectural extension. The Toronto Islands (10-minute ferry from Bay Street) are a cluster of car-free islands in Lake Ontario with beaches, cycling paths, and spectacular skyline views — most rewarding on summer evenings looking back at the lit city from the western shore.
What is Toronto’s food scene and where should visitors eat?
Toronto’s food scene is one of the finest expressions of what genuine multiculturalism produces when applied to cooking. The St Lawrence Market (open Tuesday–Sunday, closed Mondays) is the city’s premier covered market — the peameal bacon sandwich stall is a Toronto institution. Chinese food in Scarborough and Richmond Hill rivals anything outside China. Ethiopian injera restaurants on Danforth Avenue rank among the best in North America. Little Portugal on Dundas West has the best pastéis de nata and piri piri chicken outside Lisbon. Greektown on the Danforth has reliable souvlaki and lamb chops. For contemporary dining, the cluster in Roncesvalles and Bloor West Village includes standout restaurants: Canoe (Canadian fine dining, 54th floor of the TD Bank tower), Alo (the finest contemporary French in the city), and Edulis (accomplished Spanish-influenced seafood). For Korean BBQ: Bloor Street West near Christie.
How do you get around Toronto?
Toronto’s transit system (TTC — Toronto Transit Commission) covers the city comprehensively with subway, streetcar, and bus routes. Load a Presto card (available at all subway stations and many retailers) for tap payment across all modes — much cheaper than single-ride tickets. The subway is fast for major north-south travel (Yonge Street line) and east-west connections; the dense streetcar network covers downtown more finely, especially along King Street (one of Canada’s busiest transit corridors). Bike Share Toronto (docked e-bikes and regular bikes) is ideal for short trips across the central core, which has increasingly comprehensive separated bike lane infrastructure. Downtown neighbourhoods are close enough to walk between pleasurably — Kensington Market to Distillery District takes about 25 minutes through interesting streets.
What are the best day trips from Toronto?
Niagara Falls (1.5 hours by car or GO/VIA train) is one of those natural spectacles that looks better in person than in any photograph — the sheer volume of the Horseshoe Falls (over 168,000 cubic metres per minute) creates a physical experience of sound, spray, and vertigo that cannot be conveyed in pictures. Stay for the illuminations in the evening. Niagara-on-the-Lake (30 minutes from the Falls) is a beautifully preserved Georgian lakeside town with renowned wineries and the Shaw Festival, the long-running repertory theatre company devoted to the plays of George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries. The Thousand Islands (2.5 hours east on the St Lawrence) and Algonquin Provincial Park (3 hours north, for canoeing, hiking, and wildlife including moose, beaver, and wolves) are the other main options for longer day trips or short weekends.
